Set up
Check your parts
Check you have all the major parts.
Main frame
2x 40120 1300mm
1x 40120 500mm
1x 4080 500mm
2x 4040 400mm
Uprights & wheeldeck
2x 40120 700mm
2x 40120 187mm
Pedal area
1x 4080 484mm
1x 40120 484mm
Handbrake support
2x 4080 500mm
2x 4080 300mm
6x triple brackets
2x double brackets
4x universal brackets
1x Allen key set
1x spanner
1x spirit level
Notes
Before starting
The profiles are anodised aluminium. They can be scratched without careful assembly; however, if there does appear to be a scratch, most of the time they can be rubbed off with your fingers.
It is also common for some cardboard dust to be on the aluminium, this can be wiped away with a damp cloth.
Notes
Use the 3D model, images, and drawings on the product page to check how the rig should look.
The final image on the product page is a 3D model that can be viewed on the majority of phones, tablets, and computers.
Notes
The L brackets with caps may need the tabs broken off for some accessory mounting.
These can be easily snapped off with leverage from a flat-head screwdriver.
Notes
Be careful with the edges of the aluminium profile as they are sharp and can damage floors with the weight of the seat.
The frame
Start with 2x triple brackets and 2x double brackets.
Pre-assemble these using the short button head screws and large nuts.
See the video below.
The frame
Slide the brackets into position of the horizontal rails. Don't tighten anything yet.
The frame
Place the 40120 500mm and 4080 500mm piece between the two horizontal pieces and slide the nuts on the brackets into place.
The frame
Use the 4040 400mm pieces for the seat to make sure the spacing is correct. Then tighten everything down.
The frame
Next assembly leveling feet onto the frame. The part is best done upside down. See the video below.
1. Pop the nuts into the slot.
2. Screw in the bracket
3. Adjust the bolt on the feet to all be the same height
4. Screw the feet in
5. Tighten the nut against the base of the bracket.
Uprights
Next preassemble the remaining triple brackets with the shorter button head screws, same as before and slide them roughly 600mm from the open (pedals) end.
See the video below.
Uprights
Drop the 700mm 40120 pieces into between the brackets.
First the brackets are put in the correct position using another piece as a guide.
Then only one of the brackets is bolted to the horizontal beams.
Finally the vertical beam is lifted up and the screws are tightened while making sure the spirit level shows it is fully vertical.
Uprights
Use the spirit level on top of the upright to make sure it’s vertical and not leaning over, then tighten the bolts to lock in the position.
Try to align the two uprights as close as possible. This can be done by using some of the aluminium that hasn't been used yet as a guide.
Top plate
Assemble the start of the top plate.
This uses the longest tapered / counter sunk bolts and the longest button head bolts.
top plate
Drop these into each upright.
To make the next step easier screw there in place flush at the top of the upright. This will keep them aligned.
top plate
Next slide the top plate on one side at a time. You can align it in the center by checking the location of the nuts. They should be flush.
Use the shortest tapered / countersunk bolts.
Pedal plates
To build the pedal plate, start with planning how the pedals will connect. If it’s possible, connect the rear bolts of the pedals directly to the profile.
See some examples of different configurations below.
Always place the front bolts as close to the profiles as possible for maximum rigidity.
Pedal plates
The 484mm long pieces that go between the pedal plates will have a thread in the end, as highlighted in the photo.
Pedal plates
The CSR120 kit has a slot so the profiles can be positioned anywhere along the slot.
Use the longest tapered / countersunk bolts for the pedal area.
Pedal plates
If the pedals are too high, the whole assembly can be inverted.
Pedal plates
Add the lever bolts with washers to the pedal plate as shown.
Sometimes the profile gets in the way of turning the lever bolts. The head of the lever bolt can be pulled back to turn the bolt without turning the lever head.
Alternatively, the kit includes a standard button head bolts that can be used instead.
Pedal plates
If upward points bolts are needed the universal brackets can be used.
Pedal plates
Once the pedals are built, the safe assembly method is to disassemble and build the plate up directly, attaching the sides to the horizontal rails. Alternatively, the entire assembly can slide in from the back and along the slots.
Now that the pedal plate is on the rig, go back and tighten all the bolts in the seat area.
Handbrake
Attach the final 4080 piece to the bottom of the shifter arm.
The build
Keep the spirit level on the shifter arm to make sure it stays level.
The build
Attach the shifter arm to the main horizontals with L brackets with cap.
The build
Use the universal brackets to attach your shifter, handbrake, and other accessories.
For best results, make sure the bolts are as close to the profile as possible or even connected directly to the profile.
Assembling the seat
Skip this part if you don’t have a seat ready yet. Keep the 400mm pieces aside to attach to the bottom of the sliders, like in the picture.
The Seat
Start by attaching the shortest 4040, 400mm, to the sliders.
The Seat
You will need to manually move the slider to allow access to bolt them down.
Push down hard because the sliders can be hard to move.
The Seat
Attach the slider section to the bottom of the seat. This will require manually moving the slider again.
The Seat
Wedge the slider lever between the two sliders once they are securely attached to the seat. This will require a large amount of force to bend the bar so that it can be attached to the sliders.
The build
Add caps to all exposed aluminium profile faces. A firm push will get them mostly into place, and a few taps will finish them off.
The build
Fasten the wheelbase to the top plate and check fitment.
We recommend adjusting the seat and pedals before adjusting the wheelbase and top plate, as the top plate is the hardest to move.
If you are unsure which bolt holes to use, check out:
The build
Once you’re happy with the positions, go through and tighten everything back up.
After the first hour or two of racing, it’s good practice to tighten everything back up again as everything settles into position.
The build
Finally, mount any accessories and use the included cable management clips to route the cables inside the profiles.
The build
Accessories may need partial disassembly to fit, depending on your arrangement.