Set up
Check your parts
Check you have all the major parts.
4x 4080 700mm
2x 4080 600mm
1x 4080 484mm
1x 4080 394mm
2x 4080 187mm (only aluminium top plate)
2x 4040 580mm
2x 4040 410mm
1x 4040 394mm
2x 4040 350mm
15x L bracket with caps sets
4x double brackets
4x universal brackets
1x Allen key set
1x spanner
1x spirit level
Notes
Before starting
The profiles are anodised aluminium. They can be scratched without careful assembly; however, if there does appear to be a scratch, most of the time they can be rubbed off with your fingers.
Notes
Use the 3D model, images, and drawings on the product page to check how the rig should look.
The final image on the product page is a 3D model that can be viewed on the majority of phones, tablets, and computers.
Notes
The L brackets with caps may need the tabs broken off for some accessory mounting.
These can be easily snapped off with leverage from a flat-head screwdriver.
Notes
Be careful with the edges of the aluminium profile as they are sharp and can damage floors with the weight of the seat.
The Build
We will start the build by assembling the pedal area.
This will require
2x 700mm 4080
2x 410mm 4040
8x L brackets with cap
4x wheels
The Build
Use 6 of the brackets to create this frame leaving 2 brackets off
The build
Attach 4 wheels. Two to each 4040 piece.
Attach 2x end blocks on the seat side and 2x standard end caps caps to the other side to finish the pedal area.
The build
Seat Area
Next step is to build the seat area
The build
Start by adding the side guides to both remaining 700mm pieces using the short counter sunk bolts.
Use the 350mm pieces to space these out the correct distance.
The build
Join the parts by adding 2x 580mm 4040 pieces as beams. Place the small spacers underneath the 580mm 4040 pieces (see next photo).
The build
These spacers slightly increase the height of the 580mm cross pieces.
The build
Add 6x L bracket with caps to secure the cross pieces
Pre-assemble nuts and bolts into 4 of the aluminium L-shape double brackets and slide them into position along the outside of the frame. Slide them along in a lifted position to prevent scratches on the outside and leave them loose.
Mount these as far forward as possible.
These are the brackets for the uprights
The build
Use the spirit level on top of the upright to make sure it’s vertical and not leaning over, then tighten the bolts to lock in the position.
Try to align the two uprights as close as possible by using the joint in the horizontal bars as a reference.
The build
Slide / drop a 4080 600mm into each side. Keep everything loose to allow you to slide one bolt at a time into the bottom.
The build
At this point its best to add the wheels. They will allow you to move the rig around while assembling it much more easily.
V2 Top plate
V2 top plate
For V2 the plates are attached to the 2x short profiles instead of brackets.
V2 top plate
Slide / drop the top plate supports onto the inside of the uprights.
V2 top plate
Attach both side brackets.
V2 top plate
Attach the top plate to one side first then adjust the other side into position before tightening it down so that everything is square.
The build
Attach two end blocks to the front of the seat area
The build
Assemble the plastic covers onto the two rectangular aliminium plates. Then fasten them in position.
On the open side connect the levers to a lengthwise connector (not pictured).
The build
Slide the pedal area in front he back underneath the seat area.
You may need to loosen and jiggle a few things to get them to line up and slide.
Pedal assmebly
Next step is the pedal plates.
To build the pedal plate, start with planning how the pedals will connect. If it’s possible, connect the rear bolts of the pedals directly to the profile.
See some examples of different configurations below.
Always place the front bolts as close to the profiles as possible for maximum rigidity.
Pedal plates
The 396mm long pieces that go between the pedal plates will have a thread in the end, as highlighted in the photo.
Pedal plates
Add the lever bolts with washers to the pedal plate as shown.
Sometimes the profile gets in the way of turning the lever bolts. The head of the lever bolt can be pulled back to turn the bolt without turning the lever head.
Alternatively, the kit includes a standard bolt that can be used instead.
Pedal plates
If the pedals are too high, the whole assembly can be inverted as shown in this image.
Pedal plates
Example of a standard pedal assembly for Fanatec, Moza, Simagic without pedals.
Pedal plates
Once the pedal plate is built, the safe assembly method is to disassemble and build the plate up directly, attaching the sides to the horizontal rails. Alternatively, the entire assembly can slide in from the back and along the slots.
Now that the pedal plate is on the rig, go back and tighten all the bolts in the seat area.
Pedal plates
Example of how to build a standard pedal plate with the Fanatec CSL / Moza CRP pedals.
Pedal plates
Slide the pedal assmebly in where the brackets have been left out of the pedal frame.
Once they're in add the final two brackets to the 4040 pieces in the pedal area that were left out to allow the pedals to be slide in.
The build
Attach 2 brackets with cap to the back of the seat area. This will not prevent the pedal area from sliding out.
The Seat
Assembling the seat
Skip this part if you don’t have a seat ready yet. Keep the 350mm pieces aside to attach to the bottom of the sliders, like in the picture.
The Seat
Start by attaching the shortest 4040, 350mm, to the sliders.
The Seat
You will need to manually move the slider to allow access to bolt them down.
Push down hard because the sliders can be hard to move.
The Seat
Attach the slider section to the bottom of the seat. This will require manually moving the slider again.
The Seat
Wedge the slider lever between the two sliders once they are securely attached to the seat. This will require a large amount of force to bend the bar so that it can be attached to the sliders.
Handbrake bar
Attach three L brackets with cap to the handbrake support bar. This is the last piece of 4080 profile and should be 484mm.
Handbrake bar
Slide the last remaining 484mm piece into this position.
Note: if you don’t want to use a handbrake, this part can be connected to the pedal assembly for extra support. Extra fasteners or brackets may be required.
Handbrake bar
Use the universal brackets to attach your shifter, handbrake, and other accessories.
For best results, make sure the bolts are as close to the profile as possible or even connected directly to the profile.
the build
Finally attach the handled to the uprights and to the pedal area
The build
Add caps to all exposed aluminium profile faces. A firm push will get them mostly into place, and a few taps will finish them off.
The build
Fasten the wheelbase to the top plate and check fitment.
We recommend adjusting the seat and pedals before adjusting the wheelbase and top plate, as the top plate is the hardest to move.
If you are unsure which bolt holes to use, check out:
The build
Once you’re happy with the positions, go through and tighten everything back up.
After the first hour or two of racing, it’s good practice to tighten everything back up again as everything settles into position.
The build
Finally, mount any accessories and use the included cable management clips to route the cables inside the profiles.
